Mental Inventory

This post is a list of all the things I *want* to get done by August 13th, when I leave for my second year of college. 

• take in waistband of petticoats
• take four tucks in each petticoat
• tuck in bottom of red striped dress
• add buttons/ties to drawers
• modify sleeves of first chemise
• make muslin toile of drafted bodice pattern
• make black wool dress
• find silk in bright color to trim the black wool

Soon I'd like to:

• buy proper tight-weave for collar and cuffs (both white and black)
• get a spoon bonnet kit 

1860s Corset Completed

All hand-stitched, costing me $9 because I reused the boning, laces, and binding off my old corset, and fits like a glove. I am so excited to have made this, for comfort's sake, and so I can get started making my cool weather dress.

Sewing Academy China Doll

Oh boy oh boy oh boy!! I just ordered the 15 inch Mary Frances doll, and can't wait for it to get her in the mail and start sewing for her. I think it will be a lovely period activity for downtime at events, to be sewing tiny undergarments or dresses! As I will be 20 at my next reenactment I think that sewing for a child-doll will be representative of my wistfulness for childhood and my thoughts of sewing for future children. A combination, in my mind, of these three paintings by Mary Cassatt:

Also, because Mary Frances' height is so close to 16", I'm hoping she will be able to wear the doll's clothing from the 1913 book The Mary Frances Sewing Book, which coincidentally shares my new doll's name!

'60s Shoe Obsession

So my order is in for 8 yards of plaid navy wool for a fall/winter dress, my corset is just waiting for grommets that I'll obtain next week, and I've been motivated with no projects to work on. Naturally I have found an unlikely project to be consumed by, the making of early 1860s Lady's Shoes. I have found several patterns in Peterson's Magazine, c. 1860, one of which I made a prototype of over the course of two days. I'm a little disappointed by how it turned out, but I think with rounding the corners of the toe, and by using leather for the sole and a sturdy wool cloth or corduroy for the body, I'll be much more pleased. Here is the pattern and design from Peterson's 1860:

 

Here is my best try at it:

My other option is one with an ankle strap,  the heel coming higher and extending around the ankle to buckle in front.

 

I think I ought to make a prototype of this one also, to decide which one I like better in person.

New Reenactment Goodies

I just got my order from Jas. Towsend and Son, and I'm pretty excited about it! I couldn't afford the actual silver wear at this time, at $30, but I'm hoping to get by with my wooden spoons! I know, it's pretty ridiculous, but I'm only a poor college student. Hopefully my fellow reenactors will be understanding and not mock me for my (I'll admit) rather lame utensil-substitutes.

Here are pictures:

(Tin plate, wooden spoons, and bamboo tea strainer)

(Tin candle holder, three beeswax candles)

(Quart-sized tin mug, glass bottle)

(Showing how enormous the quart mug is!)

(Cotton muslin liner I made for the bamboo strainer, as my tea-leaves went through every tiny hole in the strainer!)

Here are some preview pictures of my quilt-lined winter hood. I'll try to get some pictures of the finished thing (I just need to sew up a couple raw edges and it will be done!) uploaded soon :)

(Stitching the quilted lining to the flannel outer.)

(You can sort of see the flower design I decided to do in the center of the lining.)

For now, I'm done. I have both a sun bonnet and a winter hood, and someday I'll get around to trimming my bonnet, at which point I will have quite a respectable collection of 1860s headwear. Now what I *need* is a second pair of drawers, as I only have one, and it's quite a nuisance for three-day weekends!

Elizabeth Stewart Clark Slat Bonnet

Today I finished the slat bonnet I've been meaning to get to for ages now! It is from the instructions on elizabethstewartclark.com, and was mad simple to do, once I got everything together. I never started till now because I needed to buy the appropriate cotton, but Sunday I got myself to walmart (the only place that sells fabric within a 10 mile radius of this school, and bought stuff for both the bonnet and the winter hood I have also been wanting to make. I'll get to work on said hood, a pattern from Peter's Magazine (inspiration for this hood can be found here, here, and here.). I'm not sure if I should expect more or less sewing on the hood, because I'm not sure if I'll be hemming the whole edge or not. I did the bonnet all by hand, mostly because I don't have access to a sewing machine here at college! But it was a good experience, and having something made entirely by hand is really pleasing.

Here are some production pictures I took:

(With some cardboard slats in place.)

(The oatmeal box I used for cardboard.)

(The hem along the edge.)

(Where facing and bonnet fabric meet.)

(Close up of patch I made on the facing.)

 (All slats in place, not yet trimmed.)

(Whip-stitching across top of slat pockets.)

(Bonnet tie.)

(Finished product.)

One thing I'd mention if you are planning on making this is that a 1/4 inch seam allowance is needed, but the instructions don't mention the fact until after telling you to cut the fabric. I realize that as good pattern-followers we all ought to read and memorize every step, but I tend to be sloppy with these things (despite my very best efforts to stay in control, I always seem to get ahead of myself!). I didn't put the seam allowance in and it turned out fine, but for a longer "cape" and brim, the 1/4 inch would probably be beneficial.

Plastic Corset Boning

I just made this video about alternative boning material (cable ties), which I used on my Regency short stays (from Sense And Sensibility Patterns).

Though at first skeptical, I am totally convinced of the place cable ties have in historic stays and corsets!